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BQ 3A News > Blog > France > The vulture price range at the back of the chapter of Camaieu and Vivarte (Andre, Minelli, Naf Naf)
France

The vulture price range at the back of the chapter of Camaieu and Vivarte (Andre, Minelli, Naf Naf)

February 9, 2026
The vulture price range at the back of the chapter of Camaieu and Vivarte (Andre, Minelli, Naf Naf)
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In 2021, the Vivarte team with well known manufacturers comparable to Andre, Minelli, Naf Naf or Pataugas used to be liquidated. In 2022, it is Camaie’s flip. The learn about highlights the correlation between the bankruptcies of those firms and “vulture funds,” those speculative funding price range that purchase up the debt of bothered firms to make capital beneficial properties. So how does this in fact paintings?

The cave in of Camaieu and Vivarte marks a turning level for the French clothes sector. Those two flagships, as soon as leaders within the attire area, succumbed to a spiral of monetary misery exacerbated via successive leveraged buyout preparations (LBOs) and a structural slowdown in sector call for.

An LBO is a leveraged buyout mechanism. The latter makes use of debt to extend the profitability of capital (because of tax advantages) and the impact of felony leverage, related to the combination between the father or mother corporate and its daughter.

If the program theoretically goals to make the corporate extra environment friendly via lowering sure control prices, it sarcastically makes its goals a lot more susceptible to financial shocks and riskier than their competition. Between the subprime disaster of 2008 and the Covid-19 pandemic expanding their vulnerability, Camaieu and Vivarte changed into favourite goals of vulture price range.

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My analysis revealed within the magazine Finance-Keep an eye on-Strategie (FCS) contributes to the working out of the operating strategies of vulture price range and the effects in their interventions at the trail of chapter of businesses.

Purchase again at “cheap price”

Vulture price range are speculative funding price range that intrude with each international locations and firms in monetary issue via purchasing their money owed to create further worth. Generally, their goals have top default dangers, i.e. top anticipated chapter charges.

This case lets in them to shop for the corporate’s debt at a marketplace worth neatly under its face worth. Then we discuss “discounted debt”. In step with the paintings of researcher Miles Gitzman, in concentrated on firms, the method of vulture price range isn’t restricted to using discretionary keep watch over energy. It extends to introducing a valuation bias right through the corporate’s restoration procedure… of their prefer.

Their manner of operating is in response to two pillars:

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Mortgage-to-own: Budget purchase debt to develop into a creditor after which use this leverage right through a restructuring to transform their money owed into fairness and take keep watch over as shareholders.

Pursuit of yield: As soon as in energy, price range impose drastic financing stipulations to maximise their rapid beneficial properties.

To reach their objectives, vulture price range once in a while use strategies that border on felony, comparable to adverse media campaigns aimed toward “disgusting other funds” and inflicting the worth of securities to fall so as to purchase them at a “low price”.

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Illustrations with Camaieu and Vivarte

The Camaieu and Vivarte teams percentage a equivalent genesis of the disaster, which is rooted within the accumulation of acquisition debt within the context of leveraged buyout operations (LBO). The chapter trajectories of those French retail figures turn out that vulture price range are concentrated on firms whose trade fashion continuously stays horny, in spite of the monetary strangulation.

On September 28, 2022, the Industrial Court docket of Lille declared the liquidation of Camaieu, which flourished within the Nineteen Nineties. GrandWarszavski/Shutterstock

Camaieu, created in 1984 in Roubaix, underwent two consecutive LBOs in 2005 and 2007. For its phase, the century-old team Vivarte, based in 1896 beneath the identify Andre, adopted a parallel trajectory with LBO preparations in 2004 and 2004 and 2007, expanding its operations. likelihood of chapter.

By means of matching the to be had data with the Distressed-Debt-Making an investment.com dataset, my effects ascertain the presence of a minimum of one vulture fund right through every primary restructuring of those two teams. For instance, right through the restructuring of Vivarte in 2014, debt used to be transformed into fairness, right through the most important debt-to-equity switch in French historical past, which enabled the conversion of €2 billion of debt to fairness.

Those price range injected €500m of extra liquidity at an rate of interest of eleven%, in comparison to the marketplace charge of as regards to 1.6% for 10-year govt bonds, additional strangling the crowd. After all, Vivarte used to be liquidated in 2021, Camaieu in 2022.

Both compromise…or struggle again at the price of your occupation

The intervention of vulture price range isn’t restricted to monetary engineering, it generates important cognitive prices. The latter is the results of deep disagreements between managers and price range in regards to the strategic imaginative and prescient.

Those hedge price range continuously impose so-called low street methods: mass layoffs, piecemeal gross sales and relocations to briefly mobilize money, and so on. The chief is confronted with a predicament: “either bend and compromise… or fight back at the cost of your career,” as Mark Lelande, Vivarte’s former president and CEO, testified.

We follow that managers operating with vulture price range, particularly the ones which are maintained in spite of top turnover, generally tend to forget company social accountability actions. This drive may result in excesses, comparable to Camaieu’s involvement within the Rana Plaza scandal.

Tracking of vulture shares

The present legislative framework, together with the Sapa II Regulation, goals to make stronger trade ethics. It continuously proves inadequate to offer protection to distressed firms from predatory “loan buyout” techniques. The result of this analysis counsel a number of avenues for reform:

Prohibit speculative earnings

Just like the Belgian fashion, law may prohibit the idea of vulture price range. Below this fashion, when a vulture fund is keen on an organization in monetary misery, if it is going bankrupt, compensation of the vulture fund’s preliminary funding will have to be restricted to the fee paid right through the buyout.

Nationwide Debt Fund

Create a public debt fund for corporations in issue, which, for instance, might be controlled via BpiFrance, to supply a moral selection to hedge price range, with the purpose of holding the survival of the corporate and jobs.

Legislator in opposition to vulture price range

The Monetary Markets Authority (AMF) or the Banque de France might be answerable for assessing and environment most valuation thresholds right through LBO operations to forestall the formation of unsustainable debt bubbles that draw in vulture price range.

The motion of vulture price range may also be in comparison to that of a tugboat which, seeing a boat in issue in a hurricane, would conform to assist it most effective at the situation that it turns into its felony proprietor for the cost of the damage. When the operation is over (the creditor turns into a shareholder), as a substitute of returning the send to port, he dismantles the engines and sells the shipment one at a time to maximise his rapid benefit, leaving the empty hull to sink completely.

This, briefly, is a trail of failure sped up via the cognitive prices and valuation biases precipitated via vulture price range. The legislator can save you a boat in issue from disappearing.

TAGGED:AndreBankruptcyCamaieuFundsMinelliNafVivartevulture
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