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BQ 3A News > Blog > Spain > Cadaques earlier than tourism and Salvador Dali
Spain

Cadaques earlier than tourism and Salvador Dali

May 4, 2026
Cadaques earlier than tourism and Salvador Dali
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At daybreak on September 25, 1668, Cosimo III de’ Medici and his entourage reached the Catalan coast. His arrival happened after he sailed to the Italian town of Livorno, touring alongside the Tyrrhenian coast, the Ligurian Sea and the Gulf of Lion. The inheritor to the throne of Tuscany thus undertook a adventure – as a part of a much broader Eu adventure – during the Iberian Peninsula. His goal used to be to seek advice from the principle Spanish and Portuguese towns and, above all, the tomb of the Apostle Saint James in Compostela.

Lately, we will hint the itinerary of the Tuscan prince thank you basically to the legitimate trip chronicle written by way of Depend Lorenzo Magalotti and 86 drawings made by way of the Florentine architect Pier Maria Baldi of the towns visited. The textual content and illustrations shape a quantity entitled Relazione ufficiale del viaggio di Cosimo III dei Medici, stored within the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziano in Florence.

The adventure of Cosimo III Medici from Livorno to Cadaques. Google Maps Militarized coast

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Cadaques, on the jap finish of Cape Creus, used to be the primary forestall at the peninsula for the 2 galleys of the Tuscan procession. The ports of Roses and Palamos adopted earlier than after all disembarking in Barcelona to proceed the adventure overland. Magalotti’s chronicle infers that the verdict to anchor within the bay of Cadaques got here on account of the loss of wind, which made it beneficial to forestall on this enclave, situated on the foot of Mount Peni and secure from the northerly currents.

Its tough geography and hard get entry to to the mainland conditioned its financial construction and loyal publicity to pirate assaults, particularly by way of Berber corsairs. They persisted to pose a vital danger to the Catalan coastal inhabitants right through the seventeenth century.

After the Franco-Spanish battle referred to as the “Reapers”, a peace treaty pressured each countries to cede territories, which became Cadaques right into a quasi-border the city with an everlasting army garrison. In step with Magalotti, this consisted of a battalion “of a hundred men dependent on the king.”

The coming of Cosimo de’ Medici within the port used to be greeted with 4 photographs and responded with 3. All through a seek advice from to the fortress, the prince spotted that the warriors have been “half-naked” and that lots of them didn’t also have scabbards on their swords, which used to be “a clear sign of their extreme begging”. Because of this, Cosme ended up giving them twelve items of material.

Baldi’s drawing

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Pier Maria Baldi’s view of Cadakues is taken from the ocean, even though it occupies a better vantage level. Since it’s the first town they forestall at in Spanish American territory, the drawing has the individuality of containing two heraldic logos. So you’ll be able to see that of the Habsburg Monarchy within the higher left nook, and that of the Principality of Catalonia within the higher proper nook.

The drawing puts one of the crucial galleys within the foreground with its oars deployed and an islet referred to as “Es Cucurucut”. On the ends seem, in a fragmentary approach, the prow of some other send and some other islet similar to that of S’Arenella. The inhabitants is definitely recognizable, particularly by way of the field referred to as “Es baluart” (bastion). Its quite sticking out profile units it aside, as do the constructions emerging at once onto the wall, nonetheless completely recognizable and appearing a few of its towers.

Pierre Maria Baldi, View of Cadaques, 1668.

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Pier Maria Baldi, Vista de Cadakues, 1668. © Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Florence, Codice Med.Buddy.123.1, fol. 16.,, Equipped by way of writer (no reuse)

For its phase, the parish church, even though recognizable, turns out moderately obscured because of the absence of the nonetheless unfinished bell tower, which lately bureaucracy one of the feature components of the town’s profile. Likewise, nearly 40 years remained till the execution of his major altarpiece, which is these days regarded as one of the vital examples of Catalan Baroque preserved in situ.

Given the aforementioned context of lack of confidence because of corsair assaults, Kadakes advanced a protection gadget in line with its sources. Even though the drawing confirmed a fortress tower (now long gone) on the best of the town heart, it lacked a enormous castle. Alternatively, it had a number of coastal watchtowers, a few of which can also be noticed at quite a lot of issues at the horizon.

On all sides of the fenced and extra compact complicated, there are two subdivisions. A couple of homes at the left would lately correspond to these in Port Dogger, whilst the ones at the proper, the place some palisades at the seaside may even be outstanding, would lately be the ones at the prom resulting in Es Poal and Es Pianc seashores.

From a ‘wretched’ position to an icon of Costa Brava

The nice prose author Joseph Pla in his e book about Cadaques elegically issues out that the fishermen painted their boats black, in line with the poverty of where.

This odd state of affairs of isolation used to be no longer incompatible with maritime business with towns similar to Genoa, Naples or Havana, and even with the Greek origins of probably the most native fishermen and coral staff. Departure by way of sea used to be more straightforward and extra herbal than by way of land, so earlier than the nineteenth century Cadaques turned into the second one port within the province of Girona with regards to quantity of products, proper at the back of Sant Feliu de Guishols and forward of Roses and Palamos.

Painting a fishing village at night.

Each Night time, Eliseu Meifren, 1911. Nationwide Artwork Museum of Catalonia

On the finish of the nineteenth century, the coming of wealthy and cultured households, similar to Pitchot, liked the introduction of an highbrow surroundings that used to be additionally contributed to by way of native dignitaries similar to Rahola. This context acted as a robust focal point of enchantment for artists. A few of the first to reach used to be Eliseu Meifren, whose portray evoked a large number of corners of the then lonely wonderful thing about this fishing village.

Over the years, the town ceased to be the “wretched” position described by way of Magalotti to grow to be, all the way through the primary part of the 20 th century, an iconic symbol of the Catalan panorama and a outstanding nucleus of the inventive avant-garde. This came about particularly across the determine of Salvador Dali who, even though he used to be no longer born in Cadaques, spent his youth summers there, and the impact of the panorama outlined his painterly creativeness. Later, the artist bought and reworked a number of fishing huts in within reach Portligat Bay into his well-known house-workshop, now a museum and visited by way of hundreds of folks yearly.

Black and white photograph of a bay with a coastal town in the background.

Landscape of the Gulf of Cadaques, Antonio Bartomeus and Casanovas (made between 1906 and 1924). Virtual Reminiscence of Catalonia, CC BI-NC-ND

Dali’s presence acted as an actual magnet for different world artists, intellectuals and creators. All through the 20 th century, figures similar to Pablo Picasso, Richard Hamilton, Marcel Duchamp, Federico García Lorca and Guy Ray, amongst others, frolicked in Cadaques or discovered inspiration there, cementing its recognition as an inventive enclave.

Briefly, even though this fishing village is without doubt one of the maximum represented in all of the Catalan panorama, it used to be the Florentine architect of the seventeenth century who first captured the wonder and forte of its panorama.

The venture is supported by way of The Medici Archive Challenge in Florence, directed by way of Alessio Assonitis, a world knowledgeable at the Medici, and the Centro Interdipartimentale di Ricerca sull’Iconografia della Citta Europa, directed by way of Alfredo Buccaro, a world knowledgeable on city choreography. As well as, the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana and the Kunsthistorisches Institut of Florence collaborate.

TAGGED:CadaquesDaliSalvadorTourism
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